The Route - Mara posting

I sat next to a chicken on the four hour bus ride from Luang Prabang to Sayabouri. In truth, I didn’t sit next to it; it was placed in a box at my feet, and it might have been a rooster.  It quietly clucked and warbled under the banging and rattling of bus windows and rooftop cargo.  I tried not to step on him and add to its stress.

We were the only foreigners on the bus. When we got on, all of the seats were taken, and a line of stools ran up the aisle (also full). As I cursed under my breath, the ticket inspector worked his magic, and half the bus got off. We squeezed into the last two open seats (next to the chicken) as our luggage was strapped to the roof.  The ride was beautiful – through the mountains on a dirt road; sunny, but not hot. I watched a few items fall off the roof and hoped that my bag wasn’t one of them. 

A dusty four hours later, the chicken and I said goodbye to the metal seats, and Greg and I took a tuk tuk to a boat, which led us to the elephant conservation center and one of the best experiences we have had so far.

Our departure was even more exciting (but sans chickens).  We took the overnight bus from Sayabouri to Vientiane.  There is only a local bus available.  Three hours into it, I found myself debating which I preferred: the bus ride or the night that I had appendicitis. I tried to stay positive, and here is how my thoughts went:

The bad: my seat was on the wheel well, so I couldn’t put my feet on the ground and had to contort my body to fit my knees in the seat.

The good: Unlike everyone around me, I did not have children (yes, plural) on my lap. And unlike the 40 people sitting on miniature plastic stools in the aisle, I had a back to my seat.

The bad: It was the windiest road that I’ve been on (puts Idaho logging roads to shame), and we stopped for a dinner of fish soup right before the curves started. Soon after, about half of the people started to vomit.

The good: I didn’t. And the bus company was prepared, as there were plastic bags available. Just a few full ones were stepped on.  I also had a window seat so I could get some fresh air. I am proud that I did not live out the scene in animal house.

The bad: There was no toilet.

The good: There were 4 stops, and I did not have traveler’s diarrhea.

The bad: I realized that everyone around me had dust masks (they help with the plumes of dust and double as a mask for the smell of vomit). I kicked myself. Right before leaving on our trip, my mom gave me two NIOSH dust masks, saying that maybe I would need them at some point. At the last minute, I left them at home, since I didn’t have enough room. So, there is no positive point to this one.

The bad: The ride took 18 hours instead of 15.

The good: It didn’t take longer; we didn’t break down, have a flat tire, drive off the mountain, hit an oncoming truck, etc.

The bad: This was an uncomfortable bus – not the VIP bus. I don’t speak Lao and no one spoke English.

The good: We were able to see a part of Laos that isn’t on the typical tourist trail.  In a few years, the new bridge will be completed, the road will be paved, and the area will be a new express lane.